For your epiphytes - seedlings or matured plants.
Mounts can be any material from styrofoam slabs, fernroot, driftwood, cement-coated styrofoam or even sheet metal. - You need to know what the plant likes when whether it is suitable for your micro-environment.
When positioning the mount, think about which side your mount is facing and how it is going to hang - this will determine how you shape your hook.
Mount sizes and shapes can also vary - if your mount is big, chances of it remaining wet for longer of periods of time is also there - which can mean higher chances of rotting. If your mount is small, it may dry out quickly and also means there is a call for frequent repotting when yur mount is totally covered by the plant.
Tools of the trade:
Stiff straight wire (same as those staking wires which the Taiwanese use, very sturdy yet can still be bent into shape),
Straw string (my preferred tying string for orchids - weather resistant, slightly stretchable, easy to cut)
Fernroot slab (you may cut into your standardised size; you may also use whatever mounting materials you want, the concept is about the same)
Sphagnum moss (Argentinian, Canadian, Australian or New Zealand. try to avoid those imported from China - a lot of muck to remove and can look very digusting. The main function of the moss is to hold water. Coconut husk, osmunda are good substitutes,)
Drill (use the finest drill bit possible)
Take your wire and cut to appropriate length
Bend wire into a "L" shape
Drill a hole in your mount. Use a fine bit. If the hole is too big, it will cause a lot of pivoting for the mount - especially when there is strong wind or when you move your plants a lot - it will minimise physical damage.
Poke your bent wire through.
Push it right to the end and...
...fold the wire over.
It should end up looking like this.
Then bend and shape the hook as to your fancy.
Until you get something like this.
Tying will be covered in part 2 of the epiphytic seedling culture.
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